1931 Chevrolet |
Front End Alignment |
Maintenance |
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For 1929 to 1932 cars, you need to align the front
end very infrequently. But, if it's out of alignment, then you'll have
a very unpleasant time when driving the car. It will wander and not
stay on a straight course. You'll feel the benefit once you get
the toe-in adjusted properly. This is a relatively simple job that can be
done under an hour if you don't get confused. The use of an alignment rod
makes the job much easier, but it isn't totally necessary. The biggest
value is to have a second person help you. If you don't have help, then
you might want to make your own alignment rod. Note: This
could be done fairly easily using a spring-loaded bathroom curtain rod.
Another option is to order the original-style rod through Napa Auto Parts. We
understand that it's still available. Probably not too expensive
either.
(Click on pictures to enlarge them.)
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Our "test" subject was a 1932 Four-door Chevrolet Sedan. |
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<<Click on any thumbnail graphic or photo below, to enlarge it.>> |
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Here is a page from the 1930 Owners Manual. It explains how to
measure the Front and Rear distances.Your "A" and "B" measurements
probably won't be exactly at the front and rear of the rims, but you can
fudge a little bit on this location. |
Here is my version of this "measurement" activity. I've added a
way for you to remember which way to turn the connecting rod.
If you're like we were, you'll turn it the wrong way at least twice!!
Use a pipe wrench. Remember you want the REAR measurement to be
approx 1/8" wider than the FRONT measurement. |
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1)
First things first. Slightly raise the car wheels off the ground.
You need to remove the friction with the floor. |

2. Point the wheel straight ahead.
Then put the bar across the FRONT of the wheels first. Always
measure the front first and then adjust the rear measurement. Use
the front as your "frame of reference" or your "zero" measurement.
The Rear measurement should always be larger! |

3.
The bar has a chain on it so that you make it level to the floor.
Just make sure that the chain is the same distance off of the floor at
both wheels. Then the bar will be level. Place the end of
the bar's points where the rim meets the rubber sidewall of the tire. |
Note: The photo to the
left shows the points ending ON the rubber sidewall. That is not a
good place to measure from. You want the distance measured between the
front of the metal RIMs. |
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The photo to the left and right show more details of the "points". |
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Our tag is very old and hard to read the lettering. |
This
enlarged photo shows what the original plate said. |
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Thanks to Andy for letting us use his car,
and thanks to Dick Olson for letting me help.
--Bill B |
Shade Tree mechanics:
Can you perform this measurement with just a simple measuring tape?
Ahhh... yes, and no. Here's the deal. You need to measure
the most forward part of the Wheel Rim. This is hard to do with
the springs and sheet metal that is in the way. So, you make it a
little lower down the rim. Now.... How do you measure this
distance when you can't hardly see down there and the tape doesn't allow
for a right-handed turn? And, if you do manage to get a
measurement that you trust, then you need to do the same thing along the
REAR of the rims and now you have even MORE metal in the way.
I was able to do a respectable job of measuring my
front-end alignment before I had my engine installed and before fenders
and stuff were attached. (I'll try to add photos later.) But
on a completely assembled car, it is very difficult to do -- not
impossible, but clumsy. To some extent it depends who the second
person is helping you. If you're married to your helper,
then you've got OTHER obstacles. :-) |
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